ITS A COOKOUT THROW A DINNER PARTY AT A N.Y. RESTAURANT

GOING out to eat would seem to be pretty circumscribed: sit, order, wait for food to arrive. But in New York where kitchens have been crammed into the tiniest of closets some enterprising restaurants are offering diners the chance to go out to cook.

GOING out to eat would seem to be pretty circumscribed: sit, order, wait for food to arrive. But in New York – where kitchens have been crammed into the tiniest of closets – some enterprising restaurants are offering diners the chance to go out to cook.

Under the guidance of chefs at downtown spots Dish, Camaje and Valbella, Julia Child wannabes can prepare restaurant-quality meals for their friends and serve them restaurant style.

When the meal has ended, others will do the dishes – just like at a restaurant.

They’ll even do as much of the cooking as you wish at Valbella, the new Meatpacking District sibling to the popular Northern Italian eatery in Greenwich, Conn.

They think big at Valbella, from the sprawling layout to the portions to the 10-burner Garland stove in the private kitchen upstairs, where on a recent Saturday night executive chef Ermino Conte demonstrated to Trisha McNally the finer points of plating tuna tartare with avocado and sour cream.

Clad in chef’s whites, a glowing McNally minced and garnished before the massive wood chef’s table filled with friends who arranged the cookfest as a surprise at her birthday dinner.

“She knew we were going out, but she didn’t know we were going to the chef’s room,” says her pal Jessica Weisman.

By the time meal prep commenced, they’d already had cocktails and sipped wine as some of the partygoers tried their hands at tossing penne vodka and stirring risotto with asparagus, mushrooms and shrimp.

Others preferred to watch.

“I actually didn’t cook myself. I got near the stove. It was way too hot,” chuckles Weisman.

After hearty entrees of steak and rack of lamb, it was on to the “enlarged napoleon.” The brick-sized, feather-light confection is a specialty of pastry chef Raphael Dequeker, who shared his construction techniques with the group.

At Dish, cooking parties have been so successful that the Lower East Side spot has closed its restaurant formerly at the location and now deals exclusively in the parties, classes, catering and other events.

“It’s our bread and butter,” says event coordinator Nancy Evans. Private classes for 10 to 50 people take place in two lofty kitchens with their own dining areas.

Dish does everything from Passover seders to corporate team builders. A perfume company signed up looking for inspiration to create new fragrances through cooking, and April is booked with cooking-class bridal showers.

Sarah Smart, one bride-to-be feted there, called the vibe “relaxed but festive.” Surely the wine helped.

“You have to remember I was two weeks away from getting married. I was a wreck, and it was still totally relaxing and fun.”

Her maid of honor thought of the cooking party because “I was pretty much hopeless in the kitchen, and it was a running joke between her and my fiance,” says Smart.

The group learned basic tips such as how to slice an onion and what kind of cutting boards are best. Then the instructor called for volunteers to assemble chicken with chutney and salad.

“It was wonderful, and one of the most thoughtful things anyone has ever done for me,” Smart recalls. “My best friend took a weakness of mine and turned it into a fun event. I also felt like I didn’t have to ‘entertain,’ so to speak, because the event was entertaining enough itself. It was perfect.”

The icing on the wedding cake was that each of the guests contributed her favorite recipe for a book passed out as favors, which also included the recipes from Dish.

“I use that book to this day,” says Smart.

At Camaje in the Village, what’s billed the “One Night Stand” turned out to be anything but for one couple. Janine Waldo spotted the private cooking class in the restaurant’s kitchen on the Web and thought it would be a perfect belated birthday surprise for her boyfriend, Gregg Auerbach.

But a couple of weeks before the do-it-yourself dinner, she spilled the beans.

Which gave him an idea.

After cooking hip-to-hip alongside the Friday night crew in the snug kitchen under the helpful eye of chef Abigail Hitchcock, and dining on sea scallops and honey Dijon tuna in their aprons at a little table in the dining room’s corner, Auerbach fell to one knee and proposed.

And what started out as his surprise ended up as hers.

Talk about turning the tables.

cynthia.kilian@nypost.com

YOU COOK, THE DO THE DISHES

Here’s where to cook your own restaurant dinner party. Prices do not include taxes and tips:

* Camaje, 85 MacDougal St.; (212) 673-8184, camaje.com

One Night Stand costs $175 for the student. Up to 24 guests may be invited, at $30 each.

* Dish, 165 Allen St.; (212) 253-8845, dish165.com

Classes start at $116 per person, with a glass of wine. For 10 to 50 people.

* Valbella, 421 W. 13th St.; (212) 645-7777, valbellact.com

Starts at $110 per person. For 10 to 25 people.

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